One year ago today I had the privilege of travelling to an amazing destination courtesy of the Mosaic Network, the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, however it was a trip that very nearly didn't happen.
I applied and was successful in participating in the Mosaic Network's International Leadership Programme, a two week intensive course that is designed for young leaders aged between 25-35 from 18 different countries to equip them with the skills, training and support to make a difference in their local communities.
I applied, I got selected and everything was looking great until I learnt that the venue was going to be Jordan.
The thought of travelling to Jordan filled me with dread. Situated south of Syria, my misconceptions of Jordan were based on news reports and, it later turned out, a lot of ignorance!
What I actually found was a country steeped in history, a rich and diverse culture, the most hospitable and amazing people and the best Middle Eastern cuisine I've had.
Reminiscing about my time in Jordan puts a big smile on my face and makes me want to return and I definitely plan to!
And therein lies my problem, how do I write about such an amazing destination??
I feel I won't be able to do it justice but here goes anyway.
Let's start with the capital, largest city and the port of entry for most people arriving into Jordan.
Amman is an ancient city initially built on seven hills, much like Rome, and it was actually part of the Eastern flank of the Roman Empire which left its mark in the form of the Citadel and Roman Amphitheatre which can be found in Downtown and well worth a visit. The Citadel gives you a great birds eye vantage point of the bustling city centre below.
When you first hear of Downtown you may immediately draw parallels, like I did, with what the Americans would refer to as Downtown i.e. wide roads, tall buildings etc. It's nothing of the sort.
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| Hashem's Falafels draws in punters from far and wide including the Jordanian Royal Family |
Downtown Amman is the old city and bustling heart of Amman and amongst its winding roads you will find amazing places to eat like Hashem, which counts the Jordanian royal family amongst its clientele. Sitting under the night sky, the food arrives in the middle of the table accompanied by fresh warm bread for you to scoop up the fresh hummus, foul and labneh accompanied by that all time favourite street food staple, falafel! It's rustic, it's alfresco, it's cheap and it's packed (always a good sign) so highly recommended.
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| Foul, Hummus, Bread, Salad and fiery Salsa - delicious! |
The old buildings in Downtown also hide some great hangouts like Jafra cafe where you can spend a relaxing evening with Shisha and Mint Tea with soothing live Arab music strummed on a traditional Oud. The great thing about Cafes like Jafra is that they are not purpose built chains but decades old establishments with charm, history and character, come to think of it I don't think I spotted any global franchise outlets in Downtown Amman and just as well as it would ruin the authentic nature of this neighbourhood.
Fear not though, if you start suffering withdrawal symptoms for your extra tall, extra skinny, extra wet, double shot of overpriced caffeine hit.... then the franchises can be found in the newer parts of town or in the Malls.
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| The keyhole cutout is a visual reminder of lost homes in Palestine |
One thing that will catch your eye amongst the many cafes and restaurants is that their menus will feature a keyhole shape cut-out in the middle. At first glance this appears to be a design feature but its actually a visual symbol and reminder for the lost homes belonging to Palestinian refugees who were forced from their homes when Israel was created in 1948 and now reside in Jordan. The keyhole reminds them and educates others that whilst they have shown grit and determination to stand on their own two feet by creating successful businesses, their hearts still yearn for their ancestral homes left behind in their homeland.
Top Tip: Take a taxi to Hashem, grab a bite to eat and then explore Downtown on foot stopping off to rest at one of the cafes, if you get lost ask for directions back to Hashem.
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| A panorama of Downtown Amman |
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| The Entrance to Al Husseini Masjid in Downtown Amman |
Also not to be missed in Downtown is the Grand Al-Husseini Masjid dating back to the 1920s. My local colleagues advised against visiting on a Friday as it tends to be a popular day for people to protest over issues but other than that it's completely peaceful.
Across town in West Amman is the newer King Hussein Masjid built in 2005 but in traditional
beautiful architecture and we'll worth a trip especially as the
Royal Automobile Museum is located practically next door housing a collection of cars which belonged to the late King Hussein, view the full collection of cars by
clicking here.
There's also the
Children's Museum Jordan, ensuring that there's something for the entire family in the vicinity, unfortunately I can''t comment whether it's worth visiting as there were no children with me but it's one to explore especially if you're travelling with little ones.
Top Tip: Pray Dhuhr at the King Hussein Masjid, admire the architecture and grounds and then take a short 5 minute stroll to the adjoining automobile museum and/or the children's museum.
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| The magnificent King Hussein Masjid in West Amman |
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| A taster of some of the cars on display at the Automobile Museum |
Jebel Webdeh/Paris Circle
The other area of the city well worth a visit is Jebel Webdeh or Paris Circle/Square, which is Amman's uber trendy bohemian district popular with artists. Take a walk down its streets and you'll find lots of cafes/art galleries, restaurants and random works of graffiti-art adorning the streets.
Top Tip: This area is oozing with character and best explored at night, take a taxi and ask to be dropped off at the Paris Square/Circle and grab a bite to eat from one of the nearby restaurants, then take a stroll amongst the streets then head into an arty cafe, admire the creativity, absorb the culture whilst sipping on a black tea infused with mint.
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| Restaurants, cafes, art galleries and graffiti-art give Jebel Webdeh a bohemian vibe |
Religious and historical sites in and around Amman
Within Amman itself in the neighbourhood of Jubeiha you will find the final resting place of Abdur Rahman Ibn Auf (R.A), one of the companions of the Prophet Muhammad (peace and blessings of Allah be upon Him) and one of the blessed ten. This won't be easy to find unfortunately, your best bet is to take a taxi to this neighbourhood and then ask the locals until you spot the beautiful mosque below where he is also buried.
A short drive away from the Centre of Amman in Abu Alanda is the Cave of the Seven Sleepers from Surah Kahf. This is a truly amazing place and to know that this is the cave mentioned in the Qur'an and to be standing inside it gives you goosebumps. When we arrived it was muggy and humid but as soon as we stepped inside the naturally cool air made it seem it was air conditioned.
The adjacent Masjid Al-Kahf is also a peaceful oasis and provides a brief English language tour and overview of the Seven Sleepers in the context of the Qur'an whilst the cave itself contains the graves of the sleepers and the artifacts that were uncovered. Definitely a "must" if you visit Amman.
Outside Amman near the city of As-Salt you can find the burial site the Prophet Ayoub (peace be upon Him). The location of the exact grave is not known although the area where his grave may be located is signposted, albeit in Arabic, so brush up on your language skills!
There is also an accompanying Masjid and you should aim to get here to coincide with one of the prayer times to ensure you can access the site.
Top Tip: Ensure the taxi driver knows where he's going before getting into the cab as this quite a drive out of the city and the last thing you want to be doing is going round in circles with the meter running, it's better to agree a fare before getting in.
Slightly further away (approx 3 hours out of Amman) is the Blessed Tree, this is a sight to behold! Were it not for one of my colleagues on the Mosaic trip, I wouldn't have known that this is located in Jordan. For those of you unfamiliar with this living miracle, this is the tree under which the Christian Monk Bahira met the young Prophet Muhammad (peace and blessings of Allah be upon Him) and foretold of his Prophethood. This tree has stood on this spot for over 1,400 years and is surrounded by barren desert yet it still thrives. Some refer to the tree as a living Sahabah, whichever way you look at it, this is one special place to visit.
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| The Blessed Tree still thrives in barren desert after 1,400 years |
Top Tip: Once again make sure that the taxi or transport that you arrange know exactly where to go as it is quite some distance out of Amman and take plenty of water with you as there are very few amenities around.
Madaba
In the city of Madaba, the home of mosaics, you will find the Greek Orthodox Basilica of St George which features a mosaic map of the Holy Land dating back to the 6th century. A historical treasure in its own right and one that has actually been used to locate and excavate religious sites throughout this region.
Just outside the city is Mount Nebo, the spot from where Musa (peace be upon Him) is said to have stood and looked out towards Palestine. It is also thought to be his final resting place although no one has found his grave. On a clear day you too can stand at the summit and glance towards Palestine. See more photos of Mount Nebo and Madaba
here.
Petra
Finally the one historical treasure for which Jordan is best known, thanks in part to Indiana Jones and the last Crusade, is the ancient city of Petra. This is quite a trek out of Amman, it took us three and half hours on a coach but it is well worth the trip, remember to pack plenty of water!
The one thing you need to be mindful of is that at the time of visiting Petra the entrance fee was 50 Jordanian Dinars per head (approx £50) and there are no concessions for non-Arab passport holders. The latter get access for 1 Jordanian Dinar!
Entrance fees aside the city is amazing and you are visiting one of the ancient wonders of the World after all. Thanks to Hollywood, you will instantly recognise the Treasury once you walk your way through the gorge or As-Siq which is approx. 1.5 km long.
From here the city is yours to explore as much or as little as you like, it will all depend on heat, the footwear you're wearing and your will power. Be warned though, if you want to see the impressive Monastery, it is a bit of a trek from the treasury and then a climb involving c. 800 steps!
I didn't make it but my colleagues who did said it was amazing!
Be wary of the stalls in Petra as the vendors will shout out low prices to lure you in and then reveal the "actual" price just as you're about to hand over the money.
Drinks and ice cream shacks can be found dotted around Petra as well as Wifi!! And if you get tired you can always opt for a camel, donkey or horse to take the load of your feet especially if you're heading to the monastery. See the complete photo collection
here including a silhouette of yours truly in an Indiana Jones hat!
Top Tip: It goes without saying that you will be in the desert and essentials like, sunscreen, water, hats and some energy snacks should be packed although try to travel as light as you can.
Verdict on Jordan
Well I've rattled on for long enough I think and I still haven't even covered the Roman ruins of Jerash or the Dead Sea but what I have (hopefully) proved is that Jordan is one amazing destination and if you haven't included it in your travel plans then what are you waiting for!?
Personally I can't wait to go back with the family and catch up with the amazing friends I made.
